Day 10 - One final Safari

Our last full day in Tanzania began a little dark. The power had not yet been restored and the sun didn't rise until about 6:45, so our early morning alarm was tough to wake up to. 

Amani met us once again and told us he would be taking us to the western part of the Serengeti today.

Olive baboons lined the road as we headed out on our way. We were once again greeted by a multitude of species. Elephants, giraffe, hippo, hyena, african buffalo, warthog, lions, cheetah, zebra, wildabeest, crocodile, alligator... Just to name a few!

At one point we came across a lion resting under a tree. I noticed all the way around his body he had a fresh wound and his back seemed to have a larger wound with some dried blood. I asked Amani if be knew what the wound was from. He explained that this lion had been caught in a wire snare set by poachers just 3 weeks earlier. His wounds were so bad, they thought he may not survive. We were all happy to see he was doing well and he had just finished a fresh impala dinner (I guess the impala wasn't too happy about it)!

Lunch today was interesting. Usually in the Serengeti there are designated picnic areas where it is safe to get out of your vehicle and eat lunch. The western Serengeti has no picnic areas. So Kim and I assumed we would be eating lunch in the truck. Amani had another idea. He decided we would sit under an acacia tree in the middle of a large area of plains so he could spot any large animals (aka: lion, cheetah, leopard, buffalo) should they approach. This seemed outlandish to me...this was coming from the same guy who just yesterday told us not to get out of the vehicle because the lions would eat us! But he was dead serious. After parking under an acacia tree, he scanned the area from inside the truck. Then he slowly opened his door, stepped out, and scanned the tree for deadly snakes. Then he slowly walked around the vehicle scanning every direction. Then casually he opened the back door, grabbed our picnic basket and said, "Ok, come". 

Uh.......

I wanted to trust him but at the same time I'd rather not be someone's lunch today. Kim got out and walked to the blanket. Then, somewhat reluctantly, I joined her. It was the most exhilarating way I've ever eaten a meal (and quickest!). And I prefer to never do it again! Next time I'll opt for the dining-in-truck option!

We drove for awhile and soon came across another area where it was "safe" to get out of the truck. A swinging foot bridge crossed over a river full of hippos and crocodiles! It reminded me of something you might see on Fear Factor! 

To me, this was nothing compared to our death-defying picnic. Bring on the crocs baby!

Amani informed us that there were over 30 hippos in the water just below us and who knows how many crocs! We saw an incredible number of bubbles from the hippos but the vibration from our footsteps on the bridge made them stay hidden from sight. Probably a good thing. An alligator was easily visible from our swinging perch. And we snapped a few photos before heading on our way.

Just around the corner when we were safely back in the truck we encountered this group...

They were resting so peacefully in the sun. A croc was also sunning himself not far from them downstream.

All-in-all it was another great safari day on the Serengeti! 

We are headed to the airport in the morning to begin the long plane ride home... It's been such an amazing journey...

As we prepare to leave I am excited to be reunited with my family. I have missed them so much and it has been such a long time since I've hugged them.

I will miss Tanzania very much. The people here are so wonderful. They are kind-hearted, warm, and genuinely good. We never had a time during our journey when we felt anything but kindness coming from them. I am excited to return someday... 

Asante Sana Tanzania!

Day 8 - To the Serengeti

It was extremely difficult to say goodbye to Gombe. The tears I had in my eyes as we arrived were now coming back as we left. I know I will return someday... That made it a bit easier. But as the forest disappeared from site I got an aching in my stomach...  

Our flight from Kigoma to the Serengeti was quite a ride. Traveling in a 9 passenger bush plane for 2 hours is an adventure. It was a bit of a roller coaster for awhile but we landed safe and sound with animals bordering the runway. We are met by a driver from our lodge who will also be our driver for our safaris the next two days. He tells us the lodge is only 55km away but it will take about 2 hours to get there. We quickly realize the reason for such a long trip. The road is only dirt and covered in potholes and he can't drive faster than about 30 mph! He asks us if there is any particular animal we'd love to see. "Elephants" I answer. "Giraffes" says Kim.

 "There you go.. " he says a few minutes later. We look over and there is a large group of elephants standing next to the truck! 

A few minutes later we pass a hippo, giraffes, hyena, cheetah, zebras, warthogs, gazelles, and more... Before we reach the lodge we are greeted by this beautiful face...

Our guide/driver said he was sorry he couldn't stop for more animals but we had to get to the lodge before sundown. As you might imagine, its unsafe to travel in the Serengeti after sundown. He promised there would be lots to see tomorrow and the next day. We can't believe it gets better than what we saw today but he promises it does... We are thrilled!

The view from the private patio on our hut is incredible! 

We are in the middle of the Serengeti so we always have to be cautious of animals around. When we leave our hut at night to go to the dining hall we have to be escorted by a guide in a golf cart. When walking around during the day they said to be extra aware of our surroundings as animals could be anywhere. I'm interested to see what animals are nearby tomorrow!

Cheers!

Day 9 - Serengeti Safari

To wake up above the Serengeti is a bit surreal! The sounds from a multitude of animals fill the air. We pretend to know what they are... "I think that was a hyena!" "No it sounded like an elephant."

I thought about taking a bath this morning to enjoy the great bath tub we have in our hut, but we had a guest visitor who was using it so I opted out of that plan. (And for everyone who knows my phobia of millipedes and centipedes you'll understand how difficult it was for me to even take this photo!)

I enjoyed a shower in the only facilities provided.. An outdoor shower on our patio with a full view of the plains below. I was secretly keeping watch out for leopards that may want to climb the tree next to our hut and suddenly make my shower less enjoyable. Nevertheless it is an unforgettable spot to freshen up before the days adventure.

Our guide, Amani, greeted us in the lobby and we were on our way! We visited the lowlands of the central Serengeti today. We traveled in an open-topped Land Cruiser where we can stand up and have our shoulders and head out if the vehicle. its a little unsettling at times but Amani assures us its safe.  

Almost immediately we come upon two lions. They are resting just next to the road and Amani parks the vehicle about 3 feet from the male. He doesn't even blink an eye. He completely ignores our vehicle and goes about business. 

Later Kim asks Amani if the lions ever charge the vehicles. He explains that the animals in the Serengeti have an "agreement" with the vehicles. They know the vehicles don't pose a threat and therefor respect them and treat them as another non-threatening species. He goes on to explain, "But if you get out of the vehicle they will eat you for sure!"  Good to know. But an earie feeling when our head and hands are just feet from them in full exposure!

It was a wonderful day in the Serengeti and we were able to see over 30 different species of animals and birds.

After returning back to camp we were quite wiped! 9 hours driving on pothole covered roads can take its toll! I was probably a little tired when I reached into my bag to grab some headache medicine and accidentally cut my finger on my uncovered razor. It took quite a chunk off the end... I know you want a photo ! ;)

Normally you would think... No biggie, put a bandage on it and get on with life. But here in Africa even the water has bacteria. EVERYTHING has bacteria! So Kim quickly lathered me up with Neosporin and we've been keeping our fingers crossed!

We ended the night in a blackout. The power suddenly went out about 9:30. That's a bit scary in the middle of the Serengeti. Mind you.. There are no fences at this lodge.. We'll keep our fingers crossed for our safety from lions too!

Goodnight! (Fingers crossed)

Day 7- Chimps Galore!

I was still feeling the adrenaline from yesterday as I woke this morning. The baboons helped add a little comedy to the morning as they "relieved" themselves on the top of the tent. Baboons peeing is a funny sound to hear first thing I the morning!

Our hike today lead us first to an area just about an hour up the mountain. We knew we were getting close to chimps when we heard them screaming and pounding on the trees. "One of the females is cycling" our guide told us. That meant there was a male who was trying to get her attention. We had no way of preparing ourselves for what we were about to encounter... there were chimps everywhere! They were gathering at the base of a tree and on vines around it! We were just feet from them and there were more coming to join them, passing us on the very narrow trail. We sat with them for what seemed like the entire day... Watching every move soaking it all in. The infants decided it was play time and rolled around with each other. It was obvious they loved each other very much and spent a lot of time showing each other how much they cared for one another. In all, we saw 18 chimps! All descendants of the original To watch chimps in the wild is an unforgettable experience. I am truly blessed.

In the evening myself, Kim and another girl from our group had the opportunity to visit a nearby fishing village. The were very welcoming and greeted us with a traditional dance.

The poverty here was very overwhelming yet again. Most of the children looked sick with runny noses, one boy was holding his throat the entire time and his eyes were very red (he's in the green shirt in the photo above). Their homes were nothing more than huts made of clay with bamboo roofs. The children were all so very adorable. They followed us everywhere as we went throughout the village...giggling all the way. A few of them kept touching Kim's hair and looking closely at her blue eyes. One little girl, about 2 years old, was truly frightened when she saw me though, she began screaming and crying and trembling with fear! Our guide started laughing. "She has never seen white person." She must have thought I was a ghost! Poor girl!

As we left the village the children all gathered at the waters edge and waved goodbye to us.

We ended the evening with a beautiful sunset boat ride back to camp. Tomorrow we must leave this place... I'm sad already. 

I miss Rob and the kids tremendously... they are my home and its tough to be away. If only they could be here with me... 

 

Day 5 - JGI tours and Gombe arrival!

Rise and shine is always early in Tanzania. We must get up, and get moving for the day's adventure. It's always easy though, the days are always filled with so much excitement there is much to look forward to!

Today we were met by well-known chimpanzee conservationists Dr. Shadrack Kemenya and Fedhili Mlacha who represented the Jane Goodall Institute. They were our tour guides for the day! What a treat! We toured local villages where the Jane Goodall Institute (JGI) has been working with the local people to help them build sustainable farms in areas that do not disturb the natural vegetation necessary for the chimps. We also visited a coffee production facility where JGI is assisting local farmers to grow, harvest, process and sell their product around the world.

Their work in the local communities has been astounding. Through JGI's conservation efforts the quality of life for the villagers is improving and the once baron mountains are now sprouting new life for the chimps. 

After lunch it was finally time for our boat ride to Gombe National Park! To say I was excited was an understatement! We boarded the wooden boat bound for Gombe and butterflies filled my stomach.

Lake Tanganyika seemed more like an ocean than a lake. The waves splashed against the side of the boat as we made the 2 hour trek up the coast of Tanzania. It was always in the back of my mind that just on the other side of the lake, a mere 30 miles away to the west is the Congo. And to the north only a few miles is Burundi. Both are very unstable countries plagued by war. But today..on this beautiful lake, traveling to the place of my dreams, I'm only filled with pure excitement about what may lay ahead.

We arrive at Gombe just before dusk. Tears fill my eyes as I step onto land. I feel like I'm dreaming! This place is truly magical. I sit on the beach alone with my feet in the water for a few minutes soaking it all in. I still can't believe I'm really here. What an absolute dream come true! 

Our group of 7 is the only group at the camp. Our tents are very nice with canopy beds and running water. We have to eat in a locked dining room to keep the chimps and baboons from stealing the food. (The key even has to be removed from the lock because they know how to use it!) I'm excited to fall asleep to the sounds of the forest. Bernard, our guide told us we would probably hear many sounds throughout the night and baboons on the tops of the tents in the morning. Let the chaos begin...

Day 6 - Gombe and Jane - A dream come true!

The forest was alive with the chirping of bushpigs, insects and a multitude of other sounds all night. We could hear animals walking by the tent sometimes stopping to crunch a nut or two. In the early morning we were greeted by eight baboons just outside our tent. Baboons are such a common site around the camp. There's a mother who has a newborn only a day old who has been hanging around camp. I'm not big into baboons, but that is one adorable little guy!

After breakfast we were ready for our hike up the mountain to find where the chimps were that day. Since there are only 100 chimps left in all of Gombe we would have to really do some trekking to find them. Dr. Anthony Collins met us at the trailhead. What an honor! Dr. Collins has spent more time at Gombe than any other researcher. His knowledge of the chimps and life with Jane is indescribable! I was so excited to meet him and thrilled to find out he would be hiking with us!

As we walked Dr. Collins pointed out very historic areas and told stories of his time in Gombe with Jane. He showed is where here original tents were, where her banana storage area was (it was like a prison so the chimps couldn't break in!), and where all the research was and still is collected and organized. It was so fascinating to me. Gombe was a jungle of trees and vines that would grab your ankles and trip you up. We were always on alert. Not only for animals but for insects, and watching our step at every turn. We were told there are at least 6 species of deadly snake in Gombe but not to worry. And once we got into the jungle I wasn't worried at all. I was elated and felt more at peace there than anywhere I've ever been.

Kim and I were in the front of the group. We had just crossed a stream. All of the sudden as we came to the bottom of a valley there they were! Two mother chimps with their babies. They were Golden and Glitter with their infants Glamour and Gossamer. The mothers, are 14 year old twins and are some of the most photographed chimps in Gombe. They are the only twins in Gombe to survive to adulthood and they are very close.

My heart is racing as they walk toward us and then pass directly by us brushing my pant leg as they walk by. Glamour gets a good peek at us from under her mothers chest as she rides by. Dr. Collins directs us to follow them up the trail and we try to keep up, but they move very fast. When we catch up to them they have stopped to groom each other. This grooming session lasts for over an hour, a the while we are sitting just a few feet from them thoroughly enjoying just being in their presence. The infants groom each other and roll around playing with anything they can find. It's incredibly adorable! After awhile they move up into a tree and we get to see their climbing skills in action... impressive indeed! The infants are allowed to climb on their own sometimes hanging by only fingertips in this 60+ ft tall tree! 

We head down the mountain for the day as we have an important date... Jane Goodall is having dinner with us! 

We all clean up and prepare for Jane's visit. She had been staying here at Gombe for about a week but she's been very secretive, trying to have as much time to herself as possible. Our group of 7 welcomes her on the beach as she arrives with Dr. Collins. At dinner I have the honor of sitting right next to her. She spends 4 hours with us sharing stories throughout the evening. She makes a point to ask each of us about our lives and asks us to share stories as well. At the end of the evening she asks for all of our email addresses and ask us each to make a promise to her (conservation based) and write it down for her. As she left she gave is a "pant hoot" which is a chimpanzee call!

This day was truly a dream come true! Gombe, chimps and Jane... I am over the moon! Feeling blessed. Tomorrow more chimps...

Day 4 - Kigoma (and the crazy Zebra!)

Our flight to Kigoma left early. We were once again met by a driver who drove us to the Arusha airport only 5 minutes from our lodge. Blink and you'll miss it! Literally! Arusha airport is a small building at the end of a dirt road.

We were excited to hear we'd be making a stop in the Serengeti before heading to Kigoma. This was our chance to get a sneak peak of what we may see early next week! We found our pilot and boarded the 12-seater plane!

I'm not a fan of flying but I could fly over the Serengeti all day! It was wonderful! In the few seconds before we landed on an airstrip made of only dirt we got a very quick glimpse of zebra, wildebeest, hippos, and a vulture! Truly spectacular! (And nope, no fences to keep them off the runway here) And that was only seconds of the day... I'm so excited to return. But on to Kigoma...

We arrived in Kigoma, a small town with a lot of people! The town sits on the slopes bordering Lake Tanganyika. It's a very beautiful place with so much poverty. That Africa smell was replaced with the smell of rotting sewage in the streets. 

As we arrived at our hotel we were informed about the local monkeys and zebras who live on the hotel grounds! We were told the monkeys may try to steal our food and the zebras will run when we use flash photography. Unfortunately the animals weren't in site when we checked into our rooms and went to eat lunch. ( I snapped this photo of Kim just after we sat down for lunch)

After we ordered our lunch I kept feeling bites on my legs so I decided to run back to the room for my bug repellant. I grabbed my phone and headed back. On the way back to the restaurant I saw the zebras grazing in the open yard in the middle of the property! So I decided to snap a photo on my phone before heading back to the table. I took this photo before what will be referred to after this point as "the incident"! 

As soon as I took the photo, the zebra pinned his ears back put his head down and starting charging full speed directly at me! My heart stopped. I looked both ways.. No one was around. It was just me and the zebra in an open area with no cover. The closest protection I could see was a tree... So I took it. I ducked behind the tree. As quickly as he began the sprint, he stopped. My heart started again. I thought, "Awe, he was trying to intimidate me.. It didn't work, I didn't run.. Now he will leave me alone."  He started grazing again. I had won the game of chicken! Or so I thought... 

So I pressed my luck. Dumb move. I took this photo...

Now he decided to teach me a lesson about the rules of chicken. He turned toward me again, pinned his ears back, and with his head down kicked his back legs in the air and charged the 12 inch round tree I was standing behind. We dodged and weaved back and forth around the tree... Me with my heart in my throat and him making a racket of noises and barrel-racing like moves! Out of nowhere a groundskeeper appeared hollering at the zebra and running as fast as he could in my direction. He pelted the bugger on the rear with a few big rocks and the zebra turned calmly and walked away. After thanking my hero profusely I asked if this was a common occurrence. He answered with broken English "He is problem. You don't have flash, right?"

I told him no. My phone never has the flash on. Later I realized the photo I had taken of Kim earlier at lunch needed a flash because of the dimly lit room - so I turned on the flash on my phone... And hadn't turned it off. We realized the hotel staff must have meant that the zebra runs AT you when you use the flash. Later this evening, after the sun went down another member of our group was chased by the same zebra when she went walking through the grounds carrying her lit up phone. Note to self: keep flash "off" when visiting Serengeti.

The rest of the day was spent at the Jane Goodall institute in Kigoma where we were briefed on tomorrows activities. We are excited for the coming days... (And to say goodbye to the crazy zebra!)

Goodnight!